![]() ![]() I wonder if it really exists there.” The Childs lived in China during the Second World War-Kunming, in fact, was the scene of their courtship, while they were both working for the Office of Strategic Services-and they have retained ever since a keen interest in Chinese cooking. “Paul and I lived 1½ years in China and never had it. “Isn’t this far better than that hot Szechwan stuff?” she wrote. As the meal continued, Julia scribbled faster and faster, and asked the others to read her notes aloud, so there could be the appearance of conversation. Two other diners sent complimentary greetings to the Childs’ table, and their waiter told them that everyone wanted to know what Julia was having (nobody in America calls her anything but Julia). Kan), and then by lemon chicken, Kan’s special noodles flavored with chicken and coriander, asparagus with beef, and bean cake with barbecued pork. Kan wrote back, “An expert such as you knows!” The squid was followed by diced-winter-melon soup, pale green and delicately flavored (“Does it look like cat vomit?” Julia inquired in a note not shown to Mrs. “Fresh frying fat makes all the difference,” Julia wrote when she had tasted it. Kan’s selections began with barbecued spareribs, served as an hors d’oeuvre, and progressed to fried squid. Kan seemed to think it impolite to reply orally to a written message. Bishop explained that this wasn’t really necessary, since Julia could hear perfectly well, but Mrs. Kan took the pad and pen and wrote out her reply. She was not supposed to use her voice, and she was communicating with facial expressions, gestures, and notes written with a felt-tip pen on a white pad. At a cocktail party following one of the demonstrations, she had swallowed an hors d’oeuvre that contained a very hot pepper, and a doctor she consulted seemed to think this might have been the cause of it. ![]() #GOOG COOK FACEBOOF PROFILES SERIES#She had lost her voice two days before, in Seattle, where she had given a series of four cooking demonstrations for the benefit of St. “Julia would like it if you ordered for all of us,” Mrs. At length, the Child party was seated at a large table near the center of a big, elegant second-floor room that overlooks the city’s Chinese quarter. Kan was deeply honored by the presence in her restaurant of Julia Child, whose television show, “The French Chef,” is well known in San Francisco, but also deeply distressed, for she had not expected the visit. Kan, the proprietor, hastening to the scene, exchanged ceremonious greetings with Paul and Julia Child and was introduced to Rosemary Manell and Elizabeth Bishop, who would be assisting Julia throughout the next week in a series of cooking demonstrations for the benefit of the Presbyterian Hospital in San Francisco. Chinese waiters flew about in response to his urgent commands. One table was too small, another too far from the windows. ![]() The headwaiter at Kan’s could not decide immediately where to seat the Child party. ![]()
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